Puppy care and training
Feeding
What food
Choose a dry food intended specifically for puppies,
avoiding generic foods and those that sell for unusually low prices. We
suggest brand name puppy food because it is impossible to distinguish good
dog food from poor dog food simply by looking at the ingredient list on
the label. Many things that owners look for, such as high protein levels
and extra vitamins, are more likely to be harmful than helpful. For example,
overfeeding and over supplementation are factors contributing to hip dysplasia.
If you have a large-breed puppy, purchase "large breed" puppy food.
The actual formula is different, not just the the kibble size, and is better
for very rapidly growing puppies.
How often
Offer food to young puppies three times a day. If
your puppy isn't hungry that often, reduce the frequency. After ten or
twelve weeks of age, feed twice a day.
Even adult dogs should have their food split
into morning and evening feedings. When fed once a day dogs become overly
hungry and are more likely to overeat at mealtime.
Let your puppy eat as much as she wants in fifteen
minutes and then pick up the food dish. Having food continually available
encourages overeating, and chubby puppies are more likely to have hip dysplasia
and weight problems later in life. Also, because free-fed puppies never
get very hungry, they don't enjoy their food unless given special treats.
The combination of special treats and freely available food encourages
them to become bored, overweight and picky.
People food
Do not give people food. If you start with a balanced
diet and add goodies from the table, you won't have a balanced diet anymore,
and your puppy will have more digestive trouble. Treats that are reasonably
balanced, such as Milk Bone Biscuits are OK, but since they are not really
all that great nutritionally, don't let them become an important part of
the diet. Canned puppy food is perfectly all right, but we usually suggest
feeding dry food because it is cheaper, easier to use, and better for the
teeth.
Shots
Between six and sixteen weeks of age, puppies lose
the disease protection they received from their mothers and become able
to form their own immunity to disease. Unfortunately, we never know when
this will happen, so there is often a brief period when puppies have lost
the disease protection they received from their mothers but have not yet
developed strong immunity of their own. Fortunately, new vaccines for distemper
and parvovirus are much more effective than what we had even two or three
years ago, and eliminate much of this problem. Also, since the new vaccines
work better we don't have to give as many, which saves money.
Until your puppy is four or five months old,
try to prevent contact with stray dogs or sick dogs. Avoid boarding your
puppy or taking her places like highway rest stops where lots of other
dogs go to the bathroom.
Distemper
When we say "distemper shot" we are talking about
a combination vaccine (DHLAPPC) which protects against a group of diseases:
Infectious canine distemper (ICD)
is a highly infectious viral disease that attacks the lungs and affects
the brain and spinal cord in somewhat the same way polio affects people.
Infectious canine hepatitis (ICH) spreads
between dogs most often by contact with infected urine. ICH does its worst
damage to the liver and can cause loss of vision.
Leptospirosis causes kidney and liver damage
and is spread most often via infected urine. The leptospirosis portion
of distemper vaccine can cause a reaction if given repeatedly. For this
reason, and because Leptospirosis has become a fairly rare disease, we
immunize for it only twice during the vaccination series.
Canine adenovirus type 2 (CAV-2) is a respiratory
virus that causes a severe form of "kennel cough".
Parainfluenza is another highly infectious
respiratory virus that causes coughing.
Canine parvovirus (CPV) attacks the lining
of the intestinal tract, and in very young puppies, damages the heart.
It remains our most common fatal infectious disease and is the most difficult
to protect against. Dobermans, rottweilers and boxer or bulldog type dogs
are especially susceptible.
Canine coronavirus (CCV) causes or contributes
to parvovirus-like intestinal disease and severe diarrhea. Because coronavirus
vaccine is expensive, and since the disease is usually not fatal, many
veterinarians omit coronavirus protection from their puppy series or immunize
for it separately at additional cost.
Rabies
Spread by animal bites or through the saliva of an
infected animal, rabies is always fatal. Because infected pets can
give the disease to people, rabies immunization is something you don't
want to ignore.
Rabies shots are started at sixteen weeks of
age, boostered a year later, and every one to three years after that, depending
on local laws and your veterinarian's recommendation. Unvaccinated
dogs that come into close contact with a skunk must be quarantined or put
to sleep. Vaccinated dogs that have skunk contact should be given a rabies
booster as soon as possible, regardless of when they were last immunized.
Lyme disease
Spread by ticks, Lyme Disease has become a significant
human health problem in El Dorado County, but because the disease is difficult
and expensive to diagnose with certainty, there have been few proven cases
in dogs. When we suspect Lyme disease, we treat with antibiotics. The dogs
usually get better and we are seldom certain whether the condition being
treated was Lyme disease or something else.
Dogs that roam in brushy areas and get lots of
ticks should be vaccinated. Those restricted to their own immediate area
and never get ticks probably don't need it. Immunization is given as an
initial series of two injections three weeks apart followed by an annual
booster.
Bordetella
Bordetella, a common cause of "kennel cough", is
a severe but rarely fatal respiratory disease. Because it spreads through
the air in confined areas, kennel cough is common even in clean, well run
boarding kennels. If your dog will be at the groomer's frequently or periodically
left at a kennel, it is wise to protect against the disease. Most boarding
kennels require it. For dogs that don't need year 'round protection, the
best time to administer the vaccine is two to four weeks before going to
the kennel.
Worms
Roundworms & Hookworms
Heartguard Plus and Interceptor, two new combination
heartworm medications, also kill the intestinal worms common in our area.
By using either of these products, we eliminate the need for routine fecal
examinations and separate worming medications. However, if your puppy has
persistent diarrhea please bring in a small fecal sample to check for other
less-common parasites.
Tapeworms
If you see little short white worms (1/2 inch long
or less), these are probably tapeworm segments. When the segments dry they
look like grains of brown rice and may stick to your dog's hair. If you
see anything like this, let us know and we will dispense medicine to use
at home. Prescription tapeworm drugs are extremely effective, very safe,
and cause no discomfort whatever. Non prescription tapeworm medications
don't work very well and often cause intestinal cramps and diarrhea.
Before dispensing medication, we need to know
your dog's weight. If he is not extremely small or too large to lift, you
can be sufficiently accurate by weighing yourself with and without the
dog. Otherwise, bring him along. We will weigh him and set up the prescription
when you come in.
Heartworms
Because of a mosquito species that lives in oak trees
at our elevation, the Sierra foothills of Northern California have a serious
heartworm problem-worse than just about anywhere else in the Western United
States. In 1972, approximately one fourth of all heartworm cases reported
in California were diagnosed at Placerville Veterinary Clinic. In our area,
dogs that don't receive prevention medicine, especially if they sleep outdoors,
will probably get heartworms.
If we discover the problem in time, heartworms
can be eliminated, but treatment is difficult, dangerous, and expensive.
And even with treatment, heartworms cause permanent damage. Although the
treatment isn't nearly as dangerous as many people seem to believe, regular
testing followed by treatment when needed is not a reasonable alternative
to prevention.
Heartworm prevention
We recommend Interceptor Chewable Tablets, because
they taste good and need to be given only once a month. In addition, Interceptor
kills hookworms, whipworms and roundworms, eliminating the need for separate
worming medications and routine fecal examinations. It is important to
use Interceptor every month without fail.
Heartworm testing
Dogs with heartworm disease ordinarily have adult
male and female worms living in the heart, and microscopic baby heartworms
throughout the bloodstream. Baby heartworms become adults only after living
in a mosquito and then getting into another dog when it is bitten by the
mosquito.
Because we cannot detect heartworms until about
six months after infection, we never know for sure if puppies already have
heartworms when we start them on prevention medication. Although this is
a concern, the risk of puppyhood infection is small, and we can safely
wait to perform an initial heartworm test until about fifteen months of
age, when rabies and distemper booster vaccinations are given. After that,
we encourage you to test every two years to protect against the small possibility
that a dose has been missed, or the extremely small possibility that the
medicine isn't working.
Training
House Training
Puppies have a strong natural instinct to avoid soiling
their own area. If you are consistent and patient, this natural urge for
cleanliness makes house training fairly easy. You can begin training any
time after five weeks of age. A little extra effort and patience in puppyhood
will make the difference later on between a happy, cooperative pet and
one that causes problems for you.
Establish a teacher-learner relationship
Use two types of rewards-praise and petting. When
your puppy asks for attention, you probably respond by petting, which is
only natural. Begin using these requests to show that you are the teacher
and your puppy is the learner. It may sound silly but it's important to
establish this relationship early in puppyhood.
Each time your puppy asks to be petted, respond
by holding your hand about a foot above his nose and saying, "Rover (substitute
your dog's name), sit." Move your hand back over his ears as you speak.
This makes him look up, which is the first part of sitting. Keep repeating
"good sit" until he sits. Then pet him on the throat and chest with your
other hand for a few seconds as you repeat the praise. If not successful
at first, repeat the procedure. When your dog sits from five to ten seconds,
release him from the command by saying "OK", then pet and praise him again.
Gradually increase the sitting time until you have reached one or two minutes
before you say "OK". Be sure everyone who lives with the pet follows this
procedure.
Consistent treatment from the whole family makes
for a better adjusted, happier pet. Insist that your pet earn praise.
Teaching where to go
At first, feed at least three times a day. All
dogs do not have the same digestive rates-you may need to feed your puppy
as often as five times a day in order to avoid overloading his system and
causing loose, difficult-to-control bowel movements. When you find the
right schedule, the result is a dog that eats and then has a bowel movement
within a few minutes.
Feed indoors. Remember, dogs do not like to eliminate
where they eat. If your dog is urinating or defecating in a certain area,
try feeding him right at that spot (after clean up, of course.)
Right after your dog finishes eating, chase him
out good naturedly to his toilet area, ahead of you if possible. Then let
him sniff around for a good spot. Do not confuse things by urging him to
go. After he goes to the bathroom, crouch down and point at the urine or
fecal matter and say "good dog". Look right at the stuff, not at the dog.
If your dog sniffs it, praise and pet him enthusiastically.
Take your puppy outside
After waking up, even from a nap
After extreme excitement
After drinking water
After prolonged chewing on a toy, etc.
If he starts sniffing around the house for a
good spot
In about four days your pup should automatically
head for his proper place after meals or whenever the urge strikes. If
it takes longer, be patient.
After this stage of house training, your puppy
knows where to go, but not when to go. Do not try to teach self control
(the "when" part) until you can be sure he will always head for the door
when it's time to go.
Teaching when to go
To teach self control, you must keep feeding times
consistent. Don't feed at 7:30 a.m. on week days and then sleep in on Sunday--you'll
ruin the whole program. Dogs can control their urine for as long as thirteen
hours when they need to. To teach self control, you should try to let your
dog outdoors only at times when you are ordinarily home to do so. Whenever
you see signs that your pup wants to go to the bathroom during the forbidden
hours, try to distract him by tossing a ball, playing with a toy or doing
any activity that will take his mind off the urge.
If possible, have your puppy sleep in a room with
people. Because he will be inclined to tune into your sleeping times, there
will be fewer accidents and less night time disturbance. Given a little
blanket as a bed, most puppies soon learn to sleep through the entire night.
How to deal with mistakes
Old fashioned house training methods tell us to
grab the puppy, show him the mess and punish him. This is not necessary
and probably harmful. Instead, if you discover an accident, just say "ugh"
disgustedly and whisk puppy out to his proper toilet area. Leave him there
while you clean up the mess. Make sure he cannot see you cleaning up. Strangely,
many dogs find it rewarding to watch their owner picking up stools or cleaning
urine, and often leave another such gift as soon as they can. Because puppies
seem to enjoy this game, it is a good idea to have them watch you clean
up after they go to the bathroom in the correct place.
To discourage repeat visits, accidents must be
cleaned up well enough to completely eliminate odor. After blotting and
cleaning as best you can with paper towels, soak the stained area with
an enzymatic cleaner. Let it remain on the stain 30 minutes or longer,
blot up the liquid, and if still necessary, use regular rug cleaner afterwards.
To work properly, the enzyme cleaner must be used before using regular
rug cleaner.
Puppy's Place in the Family
The reason dogs are such good pets and fit so well
into human society is that they are social animals by nature. Their greatest
psychological need is to be part of a group. Whether it's a family of
just you and puppy, or a boisterous household full of children and pets,
in order to be happy your new puppy must feel secure about her place in
the group.
If you watch puppies at play, you will see a lot
of growling and tussling. There is more to this play fighting than meets
the eye. Those little guys are already deciding who is going to be "top
dog". Whether you realize it or not, something very much like this play
fighting is happening at home between your puppy and the rest of the family.
To be confident and secure what puppies need most
is a master they can depend on. For your dog to have a happy life and be
a pleasure to own, at least one person in the family must become such a
master. Dogs have no mental concept of "friends and equals". Somebody has
to be boss. Assertive puppies will grow up trying to be boss, which won't
make either one of you happy. A submissive puppy may spend its entire life
fretting and worrying, never sure what is expected. Everything usually
works out just fine automatically--puppies find their place in the family
without much trouble and everyone is happy with the arrangement. If, on
the other hand, you have a strongly assertive or unusually submissive pet
there are some things you should keep in mind:
Working with an assertive puppy
Assertive puppies tend to immediately investigate
new people and objects. They are quick to begin play fighting activities
with people. When they want to be petted or fed, they are insistent and
demanding. These puppies fall easily into the role of family protector
because they think the people belong to them. This is well and good, but
because dogs cannot really understand human society, there is soon trouble.
They may try to defend you from everyone, and biting the UPS man because
he invades your yard is not ok. Biting the children is not ok. The most
serious problems happen when grandchildren are involved. Perceived either
as an outside threat or a competitor, it is not unusual for grandchildren
to be badly injured by big assertive dogs.
The training techniques used to establish your
teacher-learner relationship are especially important. Remember that your
dog will be much happier in the long run if he earns praise and pleasure
by obeying you, not by demanding it.
It is especially important for you to be master.
Do not allow your dog to nip or bite at you in a friendly way. Do not stimulate
your puppy by waving your arms and acting excited or by playing tug of
war. Do not become what your puppy perceives to be an equal and competitive
playmate.
Working with a submissive puppy
Submissive puppies tend to "shy away" from new people
or things, either by lying down or actually running away. It is normal
for most puppies to be slightly submissive. They wish for nothing more
than to please you and this makes them easy to train.
Teach shy puppies things they can do that will
earn your calm, reassuring praise. Try to provide a peaceful environment
and a dependable schedule that includes exercise, a daily obedience session,
and reliable feeding times.
submissive urination
Most puppies and young dogs have a tendency to
urinate in response to new situations, when meeting a stranger, or even
when their owners come home and greet them excitedly. This is a sign that
your puppy is uncertain about what is expected. Never scold when this happens.
Puppy is already trying hard to please. Calmly reassure, ignoring the urination.
Clean up later, in private.
fear biting
If puppies don't know what is expected of them,
particularly if they are beginning to believe that people are supposed
to do what dogs tell them to do, they may react inappropriately to strangers.
The puppy is afraid, but psychologically unable to be completely submissive.
They usually show signs of fear and try to run away from a threatening
situation, but when escape is prevented, they bite. It happens when children
insist on petting a frightened dog, and happens at the veterinarian's office.
These puppies need the firm leadership and reassurance best achieved through
obedience training.
Destructive Chewing
It is natural for puppies to chew--that's one
of the ways they explore and learn. Try to keep valuable objects that are
chewable safely out of reach and provide a satisfactory alternative like
a Nylabone chew toy. Destructive chewing is merely a way to work off excitement
and relieve frustration, not an insidious plan to get even with you. Help
encourage your puppy to be calm. Be easygoing. Don't encourage tug of war
or play that involves chewing and biting.
When you leave home for the day, don't make it
into a big deal for the dog. By showing lots of emotion of any sort (threats
or cheerfulness, it doesn't matter) you build up emotional stress. This
is often vented in destructive chewing. Your last three or four minutes
at home should be spent calmly reading or sitting. Then get up and leave,
ignoring your puppy completely--don't even say goodbye. Arrive home the
same way. Ignore your puppy at first and avoid the area where things are
most likely to have been chewed. If things are a mess when you get home,
don't let puppy know you care. Behave calmly. Clean up later when your
puppy can't watch. Do not build up more stress by scolding--that just makes
things worse. Again, work on teaching simple obedience and building the
teacher-learner relationship. Puppies need a calm, dependable master.
Chew Treats, Bones and Toys
Don't give your puppy anything small enough to swallow
that can't be digested, or things that can be chewed into large indigestible
chunks and swallowed.
Chicken bones, rib bones, and pork bones are the
most likely to cause trouble. Old gooey rawhide chews or bones from the
butcher that have been around for a few days get rotten and stinky and
cause diarrhea. If you give things like this (not really a good idea),
use good sense. Bones should be too large to swallow and solid enough that
they won't be broken up into smaller chunks.
Hooves, pig's ears, and miscellaneous semi-digestible
treats probably aren't a good idea either, but if you use them be sure
they are too large to be swallowed whole, or small enough to go all the
way through.
Instead, we suggest using flavored Nylabone or
Nylafloss chew toys. If your puppy first learns to prefer bones and rawhide,
he probably won't think chew toys are all that great, so use them from
the beginning. Nylafloss looks like a big thick chunk of nylon rope. Puppies
like it because they can really sink their teeth into the rope, and it
helps keep the teeth clean.
