Orphaned Puppies - How to Raise Them

by Race Foster, DVM
Drs. Foster & Smith, Inc.

Puppies are usually orphaned when the mother (dam) is not able to adequately care for her puppies. This may be because she cannot produce milk (a condition called agalactia) or because she has behavioral or psychological abnormalities which prevent her from adequately caring for her puppies. In rare instances, the mother may actually not be present due to death, injury or complications arising from a difficult birthing. Some puppies may be several weeks old before its mother becomes unable to care for it.

The principles of raising one orphaned puppy are not significantly different than those of raising an entire orphaned litter. In most cases, an entire litter is orphaned rather than a single puppy. Raising an orphaned litter in the complete absence of a mother is time consuming but rewarding. It is very possible to hand raise an entire litter from birth with the same success rate as could be accomplished by the natural caring mother. To successfully raise an orphaned litter one must consider:

Temperature

To remain healthy, puppies must be kept at the proper ambient temperature. Young puppies cannot conserve body heat or shiver to create heat. Supplying artificial heat sources such as an incubator, heat lamp, warm water pad or electrical heating pad will help puppies remain at the correct body temperature. Regardless of the heat source, it is very important not to overheat or burn the puppies. Keep a thermometer in the puppy area to monitor the temperature. During the first week of life the puppies should be kept in an area with the surrounding heat being 95-100 degrees Fahrenheit. For the second week the temperature should be about 85 degrees Fahrenheit. By three weeks of age, the puppies will be able to crawl and shiver to generate body heat. Temperatures at 70-85 degrees Fahrenheit are fine at three weeks of age and older. A simple 25- watt light bulb suspended over one end of a small box usually will supply sufficient heat. Keep a thermometer under the light source to monitor the temperature. By three weeks of age the puppies will move closer to or away from the heat source and seek out their preferred temperature.

Humidity

Typically, artificial heat sources dry the air. Some commercial infant incubators such as those purchased second hand from human hospitals may contain humidity controls. Keep the moisture in a range comfortable for humans. In a homemade box area, a towel moistened with water and placed over the box will help add moisture. Never raise infants in a damp or moldy basement area. This type of stagnant dampness is usually cold and invites mildew and respiratory infections. Temperature control is more critical than humidity.

Nutrition and weaning

Supplying adequate nutrition is always a concern in hand raising puppies. Commercially prepared infant milk formulas are readily available and are nutritionally balanced to meet the needs of orphan puppies. Homemade milk formula recipes are also available. These are not perfectly balanced nutritionally but will suffice for several days until commercial formulas can be obtained. Esbilac and Puppylac are well known puppy milk replacers.

Emergency Puppy Milk Replacer
1 cup whole milk (cow or goat)
1 pinch table grade salt
3 egg yolks - no whites
1 tablespoon corn oil
1/4 teaspoon liquid vitamins

Blend and serve at 95° - 100° or skin temperature
 
 

Puppy formula may be bottle fed or administered through a stomach tube passed through the mouth and into the stomach. Bottles for puppies are readily available and are the preferred method of feeding. Tube feeding is best left to trained individuals as the tube may be inadvertently passed to the lungs and cause choking when the formula is administered. Tube feeding, although risky, is warranted in puppies failing to nurse properly. Some kennel operators have become experts at tube feeding and prefer this method as they then know precisely how much formula each puppy has received. For most instances, however, we prefer and recommend bottle feeding. Feed a puppy while on its belly, not on its back as is the case with human babies.

During the first four weeks of life most puppies will eat nothing but infant milk formula. Warm the milk formula to 95 degrees Fahrenheit before feeding. Room temperature is okay after the puppies are three weeks old. Puppies less than one week of age should be fed every two hours around the clock. Between seven and fourteen days of age feeding intervals should be about four hours. At two weeks of age most puppies can go eight hours during the night with no feedings, but should be fed every four hours throughout the daytime. By four weeks of age many puppies will go four to six hours between feedings. During the first four weeks of life the feedings consist of a milk formula only, fed at the above intervals. The amount to feed at each interval varies with every individual puppy, but expect an eight ounce puppy to consume about 30 ml (one ounce) of formula over a 24-hour period. Most milk formulas contain about 60 calories per ounce of formula thus the eight ounce puppy will consume about 30 calories in a 24-hour period. This is a guideline only and it is better to feed lesser amounts more often than large amounts at one time.

 After four weeks of age puppies will begin drinking formula from a shallow type of pan (pizza pan). When they begin drinking on their own the addition of puppy food either canned and/or dry, is recommended. Mix the puppy food with the milk formula to create a mixture the consistency of a chunky pea soup for humans. Usually by five weeks of age the puppies will eat this type of food. Generally over the next three weeks add more dry food and less milk formula and canned food until the puppies are seven weeks of age. By this age they should be eating a puppy diet consisting of 100 percent dry food. At this point the puppies are fed exactly like any non-orphaned puppy. From age two weeks until adulthood (one year) puppy vitamins should be given in addition to the milk formula and dry puppy foods. Excellent liquid vitamins such as Early Yearsäand Vitatabs Junior are available and they meet the specific needs of growing puppies.

Sanitation

A newborn puppy is unable to urinate or have a bowel movement on its own. It lacks the necessary muscle control over these functions. A puppy must be stimulated to urinate and defecate. This duty is normally performed by the mother. Her grooming or licking of the puppies' anal area will stimulate it to urinate and defecate. Orphaned puppies must be manually stimulated by the owner to enable urination and defecation. The puppy must be stimulated after each and every feeding. Fortunately, this is easy. A cotton ball or piece of soft toweling works well. Moisten it with warm water and gently rub the anal and genital area. Within one to two minutes the puppy will urinate and/or defecate. Puppies will need to be stimulated in this fashion until their bladder and bowel muscles strengthen, usually by 21 days of age. Most puppies will eliminate on their own by three weeks of age.

Clean the puppy and you are done until the next feeding. Observe the urine and feces for signs of ill health. The urine should be a pale yellow or clear. If it is dark yellow or orange the puppy is not being fed enough. Do not feed more at one time, but feed more often. The stool should be a pale to dark brown and partially formed. Green stool indicates an infection, and too firm of a stool indicates not enough formula. Again, if the stool is hard, feed more often rather than increasing the amount of formula given per feeding. It is possible to feed a puppy too much, but not too often. Too much food causes bloating, gas, regurgitation and sometimes aspiration into the lungs.

Another way to help determine the puppies' progress is by weighing them daily. This helps to compare littermates and identify those that are failing to thrive. Use a human infant scale or any other scale sensitive enough to weigh light objects. There is no set amount a puppy should weigh as each is different by breed size. Weighing will help compare those individuals within a given litter.

Disease prevention

Many orphaned puppies are at a higher risk of developing infectious diseases such as distemper and parvovirus. This is especially true of puppies that were orphaned without having received any of their natural mother's milk. The mother's milk produced during the first 24 hours after giving birth is especially rich in disease-protecting antibodies. The milk produced within the first 24 hours of nursing is called colostrum . Colostrum contains the antibodies which when consumed by the puppies provides immunity against many diseases. Puppies that have never nursed have not received colostrum and do not have good immunity. Because of the possible lack of immunity, many veterinarians recommend starting orphaned puppies with their first vaccinations at four weeks of age rather than the usual six weeks of age.

Worming the orphaned puppy is no different than with unorphaned puppies. Most worming programs begin at about four weeks of age.

The American Association of Parasitologists and the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention have made the following recommendations for deworming puppies:

  • Every 2 weeks until 3 months of age
  • Once a month from 3 to 6 months of age
  • After 6 months follow adult recommendations which are to treat regularly (example: four times a year), considering potential exposure to parasites and prepatent periods (time from when parasite enters the body to the appearance of eggs in the stool).
  • Socialization

    It is important for the orphan puppy to have interaction with members of the household at 5-6 weeks of age. Remember, it is still a baby and must be handled with care, but you should start to introduce the pup to noises, grooming procedures, new people and pets. Early socialization and enabling the puppy to feel secure in its own environment will help prevent many problems from arising in the future.

    Conclusion

    Does raising the orphan pup or litter seem like an enormous task? Don't worry, there are excellent books available for more specific information on orphan care and veterinary care in general. With a commitment of time and care, a little common sense, and some basic information, it can be a very positive experience. The happy, healthy young dog you helped raise will be a wonderful reward.