Puppies are usually orphaned when the mother (dam) is not able to adequately care for her puppies. This may be because she cannot produce milk (a condition called agalactia) or because she has behavioral or psychological abnormalities which prevent her from adequately caring for her puppies. In rare instances, the mother may actually not be present due to death, injury or complications arising from a difficult birthing. Some puppies may be several weeks old before its mother becomes unable to care for it.
The principles of raising one orphaned puppy are not significantly different than those of raising an entire orphaned litter. In most cases, an entire litter is orphaned rather than a single puppy. Raising an orphaned litter in the complete absence of a mother is time consuming but rewarding. It is very possible to hand raise an entire litter from birth with the same success rate as could be accomplished by the natural caring mother. To successfully raise an orphaned litter one must consider:
Supplying
adequate nutrition is always a concern in hand raising puppies. Commercially
prepared infant milk formulas are readily available and are nutritionally
balanced to meet the needs of orphan puppies. Homemade milk formula recipes
are also available. These are not perfectly balanced nutritionally but
will suffice for several days until commercial formulas can be obtained.
Esbilac and Puppylac are well known puppy milk replacers.
Emergency Puppy Milk Replacer
1 cup whole milk (cow or goat)
1 pinch table grade salt
3 egg yolks - no whites
1 tablespoon corn oil
1/4 teaspoon liquid vitamins
Blend and serve at 95° - 100°
or skin temperature
Puppy formula may be bottle fed or administered through a stomach tube passed through the mouth and into the stomach. Bottles for puppies are readily available and are the preferred method of feeding. Tube feeding is best left to trained individuals as the tube may be inadvertently passed to the lungs and cause choking when the formula is administered. Tube feeding, although risky, is warranted in puppies failing to nurse properly. Some kennel operators have become experts at tube feeding and prefer this method as they then know precisely how much formula each puppy has received. For most instances, however, we prefer and recommend bottle feeding. Feed a puppy while on its belly, not on its back as is the case with human babies.
During the first four weeks of life most puppies will eat nothing but infant milk formula. Warm the milk formula to 95 degrees Fahrenheit before feeding. Room temperature is okay after the puppies are three weeks old. Puppies less than one week of age should be fed every two hours around the clock. Between seven and fourteen days of age feeding intervals should be about four hours. At two weeks of age most puppies can go eight hours during the night with no feedings, but should be fed every four hours throughout the daytime. By four weeks of age many puppies will go four to six hours between feedings. During the first four weeks of life the feedings consist of a milk formula only, fed at the above intervals. The amount to feed at each interval varies with every individual puppy, but expect an eight ounce puppy to consume about 30 ml (one ounce) of formula over a 24-hour period. Most milk formulas contain about 60 calories per ounce of formula thus the eight ounce puppy will consume about 30 calories in a 24-hour period. This is a guideline only and it is better to feed lesser amounts more often than large amounts at one time.
After four weeks of age puppies will begin drinking formula from a shallow type of pan (pizza pan). When they begin drinking on their own the addition of puppy food either canned and/or dry, is recommended. Mix the puppy food with the milk formula to create a mixture the consistency of a chunky pea soup for humans. Usually by five weeks of age the puppies will eat this type of food. Generally over the next three weeks add more dry food and less milk formula and canned food until the puppies are seven weeks of age. By this age they should be eating a puppy diet consisting of 100 percent dry food. At this point the puppies are fed exactly like any non-orphaned puppy. From age two weeks until adulthood (one year) puppy vitamins should be given in addition to the milk formula and dry puppy foods. Excellent liquid vitamins such as Early Yearsäand Vitatabs Junior are available and they meet the specific needs of growing puppies.
Clean the puppy and you are done until the next feeding. Observe the urine and feces for signs of ill health. The urine should be a pale yellow or clear. If it is dark yellow or orange the puppy is not being fed enough. Do not feed more at one time, but feed more often. The stool should be a pale to dark brown and partially formed. Green stool indicates an infection, and too firm of a stool indicates not enough formula. Again, if the stool is hard, feed more often rather than increasing the amount of formula given per feeding. It is possible to feed a puppy too much, but not too often. Too much food causes bloating, gas, regurgitation and sometimes aspiration into the lungs.
Another way to help determine the puppies' progress is by weighing them daily. This helps to compare littermates and identify those that are failing to thrive. Use a human infant scale or any other scale sensitive enough to weigh light objects. There is no set amount a puppy should weigh as each is different by breed size. Weighing will help compare those individuals within a given litter.
Worming the orphaned puppy is no different than with unorphaned puppies. Most worming programs begin at about four weeks of age.
The American Association of Parasitologists and the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention have made the following recommendations for deworming puppies: