Introduction
Preparing the Bitch
Choosing a Stud Dog
Paperwork
Breeding Timeline
Pregnancy Timeline
Preparing Your Whelping Kit
Whelping the Litter
Raising Puppies Timeline
Finding And Dealing With Puppy Buyers
Health Guarantees
Financial Considerations
Resources
Introduction
Breeding a litter of puppies is a task to be taken very, very seriously. You are producing life of your own volition for a wide variety of reasons. Some of those reasons will be good ones, some will not. But this decision should be thought through very, very carefully. Also, this document should be taken only as a starting point. If after reading this document, you still want to breed your bitch, I strongly suggest that you get and read the books listed in the resource section.
Further, I recommend you consult with your bitch's breeder for guidance
in this matter. Dogs should be bred for one reason and one reason only:
To improve the breed. If you are reading this with the intention of breeding
to make a quick buck, educate the children, or to fulfill your bitch's
feminine needs, please don't breed your dog! Seriously, as you'll learn
as you read on, done properly, breeding is rarely a money-maker; more likely
a money drain! Children can become educated much more fully than you intended
when something goes wrong in a breeding. Losing the bitch and all her puppies
is probably not the lesson you intended but it happens all to frequently.
And, of course, as to the last one, most bitches really want to be your
beloved companion 24 hours a day, so if you really want to make your dog
happy, spay her and spend more time with her! But, if you
are determined to go on, then please read this FAQ thoroughly. It covers
the responsible breeding of dogs to produce quality puppies and give them
the best start in life.
If you have a dog that is pregnant right now, please do not use this FAQ as your sole source of information. Please look for a qualified veterinarian in your area to assist you with whelping the puppies.
The information in this FAQ has been obtained by my own experience,
research through literature and by talking to knowledgeable breeders. Many
thanks go to Vicki Blodgett and Terri Herigstad for being so willing to
share their hard won expertise. Also, I'd like to thank Cindy Tittle Moore
for her support of my first solo FAQ project.
Preparing the Bitch
What do I need to do before I breed my bitch?
This is really two questions. What should I do before I decide to breed my bitch and, then, once that decision is made, what do I do next.
Okay, what do I do before I decide to breed my bitch?
Before you breed a dog, you need to decide
whether or not that dog is an appropriate candidate for breeding.
First of all, no bitch should be bred before
the age of 2. They are just not physically mature enough yet. Let them
grow up and develop before they go through the physical strain of breeding,
carrying, and whelping puppies. This shouldn't be a problem however,
because you'll be plenty busy during those two years. Your dog will be
in preparation for breeding for the first two years of her life.
Everything you do for her, including providing quality nutrition
and health care, obedience training, showing, working, and loving will
make her a better mother and help her to produce a healthier litter.
I can see why nutrition and health care are important concerns, but
how do those other things make her a better brood
bitch?
They are all important in different ways. The most important is probably the last one. Pregnancy, delivery, and puppy raising are very stressful on a dog and knowing that you love her really does make her job easier. For one thing, she'll trust you to help with the puppies, rather than feeling that she needs to defend them. The obedience training comes into play in the strangest ways. Sometimes a female will get overly anxious when her new puppies start crying: being able to put her on a down stay so that she is giving them ready access to what they want (food!) will give you great peace of mind.
Okay, but what about showing and working, how can those have any effect on her qualities as a brood bitch?
There are two reasons why a brood bitch should
"get out of the house." First of all, she'll be a happier dog if she
has activities in her life and gets to go places with you and do fun things.
If she's happier, she'll be a better mother.
It's that simple. Secondly, you need to have
some way of knowing that your bitch is worthy of breeding. That
sounds very judgmental, but I'll remind you
that we are discussing responsible breeding here. That means that we
are breeding to better the breed. The best way to ensure that you are improving
the breed is to only breed quality animals to other quality animals with
an eye to minimizing faults and strengthening good qualities. We'll discuss
more on choosing a stud dog later, however, you also need to choose your
brood bitch. If you are starting out with your first dog, you'll
need to look long and hard at her and decide if she's worthy of breeding.
This has nothing to do with how much you love her, obviously you do, this
has to do with bettering the breed. This can be a difficult decision to
make when your heart is involved. Hearts tend to fuzz up our vision so
that faults are minimized and good qualities are enhanced. This is where
the idea of showing and testing our animals originated.
These events give us a better idea of whether
or not our dogs are worthy of breeding. But, keep in mind,
everyone has their own standards and they
won't all agree. Some people won't breed a bitch until she's a
Champion in the show ring. Some people don't
consider a bitch worthy of breeding until she's got her Master Hunter
title or her Utility Dog title. You have to make these decisions yourself,
keeping in mind the idea of bettering the breed. At the minimum,
you should have her evaluated by another, more knowledgeable pair of eyes.
Her breeder would be an ideal choice, however,
that's not always possible. Any experienced breeder in your
particular breed should be able to help you
evaluate your bitch honestly and without the rosy glow of love
changing your perspective.
Okay, I'm satisfied that she's a quality bitch, worthy of breeding, what's the next step?
Hold on there! Not so fast! This is a long
process, remember? There is another reason you need to wait until your
bitch is over two years of age. Health Checks! You'll need to have various
health checks done in order to
determine whether or not your dog should be
bred. The necessary health checks vary from breed to breed and you
should consult a good book on your breed or a knowledgeable breeder to
determine what tests you'll need to have done.
The most common tests are:
Hip X-rays: Have a veterinarian x-ray your
dog's hips and submit those x-rays to the OFA (Orthopedic
Foundation for Animals) for evaluation. If
your dog's hips are rated Fair, Good, or Excellent, your dog is normal
and can be bred. If they are rated dysplastic, please spay your bitch as
soon as possible and discuss this diagnosis with your vet. Hip Dysplasia
is an often painful joint disorder that can be treated in various ways.
It is hereditary and no dog that is dysplastic should be bred.
Elbow X-rays: Recently, the dog community has
become aware that elbows are also at risk of becoming
dysplastic. Most responsible breeders are
also having elbow x-rays done and evaluated by the OFA.
Eyes: In many breeds, a disease called PRA
(Progressive Retinal Atrophy) is a serious problem. A
board-certified veterinary ophthalmologist
can examine your pets eyes and ensure that they are normal. This test must
be done on an annual basis. Since PRA is a progressive disease, a dog can
be fine one year and show symptoms the next. Eye examinations can then
be sent on to CERF (Canine Eye Registry Foundation) for certification
which must be renewed annually. There are other eye disease common to different
breeds as well; you will need to research to find out what is applicable
for your breed.
Brucellosis: This is a canine venereal disease
that can be transmitted in other ways as well. Even virgin dogs or
bitches should be tested prior to breeding. Most stud dog owners require
recent brucellosis tests before allowing breeding to occur. They
will generally have tested their dogs within the last six months. If they
haven't tested their dogs in the last six months, ask that they do so before
breeding to your bitch! You should require all of the above testing from
the stud dog owner as well as providing it to them. More on choosing a
stud dog, below.
Choosing a Stud Dog
Choosing a sire for your litter is as important a decision as choosing your bitch was originally. You need to spend some time and effort on this decision. This is a good time to get some expert advice. If at all possible, you should consult with your bitch's breeder and ask them to spend some time with you going over the various options so that you understand why one dog would be better for your bitch than another. If your breeder or another expert isn't available to spend some time with you, then you'll need to do the research on your own so you can make a knowledgeable decision.
The first thing you'll want to do is take the information you've gathered
over the years about your bitch and analyze her strengths and weaknesses.
Does she have a weak topline but a nice front? How is her rear angulation?
What about her coat texture? Her temperament? You can see know why getting
your dog out and showing and/or working her can be helpful in this process.
If you don't know what's wrong with your bitch, you don't know what you
want to fix in a future generation. And, that's really what you are trying
to do -- improve the breed by improving on your bitch. So be brutally honest
with yourself.
You know you love your bitch, that's not in question here, but if you
can't be honest about her flaws, then you can't fix them in a future generation.
You'll want to focus on one, maybe two, problems that you'd like to see
improved and look for a stud dog who is strong in those areas without being
too weak in some other area. It can become a delicate balancing act --
of course, with no guarantee of success.
There are two main theories in breeding that you'll want to understand. The first one is probably the simplest: breeding like to like. This means that you take the overall look of the bitch and find a stud dog that physically compliments her look. The theory is that if you breed like to like, you'll get like.
The second way to approach a breeding is more complicated. It's called linebreeding. It involves analyzing the pedigrees of your bitch and the potential stud dogs to choose a good match. There are several ways to approach linebreeding. First of all, you need to understand several terms.
Linebreeding is similar to breeding like to like only instead of collecting physical similarities, you are collecting the genes of a particular dog. Inbreeding is an extremely close linebreeding. When you are starting out in breeding, you want to keep away from inbreeding as it is risky unless you are very sure of the pedigrees involved. The last type of pedigree-breeding is an outcross. An outcross breeding will have a pedigree where there are no, or at least very few, dogs in common. This often happens when you are breeding like to like. Most breeders practice some form of linebreeding, generally focusing on one of the important studs in their bree.
Of course, you want to make sure that the dog you are concentrating on is worthy of the honor. If you linebreed on a mediocre dog -- or a dog with a particular health problem -- you'll get what you asked for. This type of breeding is particularly tricky and you want to make sure that you have carefully researched the dogs in your bitch's pedigree so that you know where you'd want to go with the linebreeding.
In practice, you'll probably want to employ a combination of these two techniques. You'll want to find a pedigree that is complimentary to your bitch and a dog that is physically compatible as well. Again, this is a really good time to seek the advice of knowledgeable breeders. Choosing a stud dog is also a really good reason to become active in the breed's activities while your bitch is young. This will allow you to be familiar with various stud dogs before you bitch comes in season.
Once you've narrowed your choices down to two or three likely candidates, you'll want to call the stud dog owners and interview them about their dogs. Most stud dog owners will be honest with you about what their dogs are producing, their strengths and weaknesses, and what you can expect. If they aren't forthcoming about the problems as well as the benefits of their dogs, you should probably steer clear of them.
At some point in the process, you'll have to make a decision about which dog will be best for your litter. No one can make this decision for you but if you've done your homework and been honest with yourself about your bitch, then you'll probably find a compatible dog. Then you are ready to enter the genetic crap shoot and see what you get. Because we know so little about the complicated genetics behind our dogs, you really are making a shot in the dark. Even the most experienced breeder makes mistakes -- this is why you want to be very careful and thorough in your research.
Once your decision is made, you'll want to notify the stud dog owner
about when you expect your bitch to come in season so that they can make
their own plans. You will probably want to get your bitch to the stud dog
within the first week of her season so that she has time to adapt to her
new surroundings before being bred.
Paperwork
Keep the following information on file for each bitch/litter you produce:
Heat Record
1.Name of bitch
2.Litter Number (way to differentiate between litters
at your kennel)
3.Date of onset
4.Interval
5.Smear date and results
6.Progesterone Test date and results
7.Breeding dates and comments on breeding
8.Palpitation dates and results
9.Ultrasound date and results
10.X-ray date and results
11.Notes on pregnancy
12.Track weight gain weekly
13.Track temperature from day 58-65, 3 times daily
14.Date and time whelping began
15.Date and time whelping ended
16.Notes on whelping
Litter Record (as required by the AKC)
1.Breed
2.Registered name and AKC number of dam
3.Registered name and AKC number of sire
4.Sire's owner's name
5.Date mated
6.Date litter whelped
7.Number of male puppies born
8.Number of female puppies born
9.AKC Litter Number
10.Sex, Color/Markings, Puppy ID number, Date Sold, Date Died,
Name and address of person to whom sold, Dates
when following paperwork was supplied: registration
application or certificate and bill of sale; name and AKC number of
puppy.
Additional Litter Infomation
1.Time each puppy was born
2.Ribbon color or other identifying mark
3.Color of puppy
4.Sex
5.Weight at birth
6.Length at birth
7.A description of any problems
8.Whelping date
9.Sire and Dam
10.Time whelping started and ended
11.Notes on whelping
Puppy Record
1.Ribbon color
2.Call Name
3.Registered Name
4.Sex
5.Color
6.AKC Litter #
7.AKC Registration #
8.Date of Birth
9.Sire and Dam
10.Weight at Birth and when sold
11.Vaccinations Given (Date and Type)
12.Owner (include address and telephone numbers)
13.Date sold
14.Conditions of sale
15.Price
16.Notes on Development and Temperament
17.On the back of this form, track the weight of the puppies
daily until they are three weeks old and then weekly thereafter.
Litter Registration Application
Contact AKC and request this form. Once puppies are whelped, complete
this form and have stud dog owner sign the form.
Send the completed form with appropriate fee to AKC. It's nice to send
a self- addressed stamped envelope with the application to the stud dog
owner so they can mail it on to the AKC without delay. Litter registration
applications must be received by the AKC within six months of date of whelping
in order to register puppies with the AKC. However, you should submit this
form as soon as the puppies are whelped so that you can deliver the correct
paperwork to the puppy buyers when they pick up their puppies.
Puppy Registration Forms
For each puppy listed on the Litter Registration Application, you will
get a registration form to give to the puppy buyers so that they can register
their puppies with the AKC. Technically, the puppy buyer can name the puppy
anything they want. In reality, most breeders insist on their kennel name
being the first word in the dogs name. Additionally, some breeders have
themes for their litters and require the name of the puppy to fit into
that theme. Make any special requirements known to the buyers well in advance
so they can pick out an appropriate name for their puppy.
Breeding Timeline
Pre-Season
Choose your stud dog ahead of time. Let the
stud dog owner know when you expect your bitch to come in season.
They'll let you know about any requirements
they have.
You should choose a backup as well, just in
case your first choice isn't available
Have your bitch examined by a veterinarian
to ensure she is healthy. Have a brucellosis test done as well.
As soon as you see first signs of your bitch
being in season, contact the stud dog owner. If your stud dog is
out-of-the-area, you'll want to discuss shipping
arrangements at this time so that you'll be able to make all the necessary
arrangements.
If this is your bitch's first breeding, you'll
want to know when she's ready to be bred. See your veterinarian about smears
and/or progesterone testing. This will help you pinpoint the right time
to get your bitch to the stud dog. This will typically be between days
10 and 15 but could be much earlier or later.
You'll also want to schedule a brucellosis
test so that the results will be current for the stud dog owner.
When the bitch is ready
Contact the stud dog owner and let them know
when and how the bitch will be arriving.
If you are shipping the bitch, the stud dog
owner will pick the dog up at the airport and will need all the information.
You should send all the paperwork with the bitch. You can just tape an
envelope to the crate.
If you are delivering the dog yourself, get
good directions and bring all your paperwork.
When the bitch comes home
Your bitch will stay with the stud dog owner
for about a week or two.
When your bitch comes home, you should get
some paperwork with her from the stud dog owner, including a contract,
copies of the stud dog's health clearances, the stud dog's pedigree, and
information on when the bitch was bred.
Pregnancy Timeline
Week One
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES
Fertilization
occurs
2 cell embryos
are in the oviduct
The embryo is
fairly resistant to external interference in development
CHANGES IN THE BITCH
Possible morning
sickness
Possible personality
changes
CARE OF THE BITCH
Normal feeding
Check any and
all medications with vet prior to administering
No insecticides
(i.e., flea treatments)
No live vaccines
TO DO LIST
Put together
pedigree on litter
Write contract
Contact AKC
for litter registration application
Start taking
puppy reservations
Week Two (Days 8-14)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES
Embryo will
be 4 cell at start of week and 64 cell by end of week
Embryo enters
the uterus
CHANGES IN THE BITCH
Possible morning
sickness
CARE OF THE BITCH
Continue as
with Week One
TO DO LIST
Nothing special
this week
Week Three (Days 15-21)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES
Day 19 -- Implantation
of embryos in uterus
CHANGES IN THE BITCH
See above
CARE OF THE BITCH
See above
TO DO LIST
Nothing special
this week
Week Four (Days 22-28)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES
Development
of eyes and spinal cords
Faces take shape
Fetuses grow
from 5-10 mm to 14-15 mm
Organogenesis
begins-- Embryos are at their most susceptible to defects
Days 26 - 32
are the best days to palpitate (i.e.. feel for the puppies)
CHANGES IN THE BITCH
Possible clear
vaginal discharge
Mammary development
begins
CARE OF THE BITCH
After Day 26,
palpitation may be possible to diagnose pregnancy
Limit strenuous
activity (such as working, jumping, long runs)
Add 1/4 cup
cottage cheese or a hard boiled egg to food on alternating days
TO DO LIST
Schedule ultrasound
or palpitation with vet if desired
Week Five (Days 29-35)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES
Development
of toes, whisker buds, and claws
Fetuses look
like dogs
Gender can be
determined
Eyes (previously
open) now close
Fetuses grow
from 18 mm - 30 mm
Organogenesis
ends -- embryos are fairly resistant to interference with development
CHANGES IN THE BITCH
Swelling becomes
noticeable
Loss of "tuck-up"
Weight will
start to increase
CARE OF THE BITCH
Slightly increase
amount of food and switch to puppy kibble. If you feed one meal a day,
add an extra meal. If
you feed twice
a day, slightly increase one of the meals.
Add daily multi-vitamin
Palpitation
no longer possible due to fluids in uterus
TO DO LIST
Nothing special
this week
Week Six (Days 36-42)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES
Development
of skin pigment
Fetuses should
weigh around 6 grams and be 45 mm long
Fetal heartbeats
can be heard with stethoscope
CHANGES IN THE BITCH
Nipples darken
and enlarge
Abdomen continues
to enlarge
CARE OF THE BITCH
Add cottage
cheese or hard boiled egg to food daily
Increase the
amount of food in the extra meal
Bitch should
start sleeping in whelping box
TO DO LIST
Assemble whelping
box
By this time
you should be fairly sure that the bitch is pregnant. Notify the people
on your puppy list. Let them
know when you
expect delivery.
Week Seven (Days 43-49)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES
Growth and development
continues
CHANGES IN THE BITCH
Abdomen hair
will start shedding
The bitch will
start to look pregnant at this point
CARE OF THE BITCH
Slightly increase
both meals
TO DO LIST
Stop any roughhousing
or jumping
Radiographs
(X-rays) possible to determine number and size of puppies
Week Eight (Days 50-57)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES
Fetal movement
can be detected when bitch is at rest
Puppies can
safely be born from now on
CHANGES IN THE BITCH
Milk may be
squeezed from nipples
The bitch will
be very large.
CARE OF THE BITCH
Add moderate
lunch
TO DO LIST
Gather whelping
kit (see below)
Prepare phone
list for help/support. It should include your vet's phone number, the emergency
clinic's phone number, the number of any friends who will be offering support
during whelping, and anyone else you might need to contact before, during,
or after whelping (like your office to let them know you won't be in!)
Make sure your
car is gassed up and ready for a possible emergency trip to the vet's office.
Week Nine (Days 58-65)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES
Growth and Development
continues
CHANGES IN THE BITCH
Nesting behavior
may be seen
Bitch may become
distressed (panting, pacing, acting uncomfortable)
Temperature
should be around 100.8-100.2=B0
When temperature
drops to around 98-99.4=B0, puppies should be born within 24 hours
Appetite may
disappear as whelping approaches
CARE OF THE BITCH
Start taking
temperature three times a day
TO DO LIST
Notify vet or
emergency clinic when temperature drops so that they will be ready if you
have any problems
Keep detailed
records on temperature and behavior of bitch
Double check
that whelping supplies are ready
Post Partum
Make sure each puppy gets some of the bitch's
colostrum (first milk) within first 24 hours.
Lochia (vaginal discharge) should be reddish
to reddish-brown (green is okay on first day). If you see black discharge,
contact your vet immediately!
Within 5-6 hours of last puppy's birth, take
bitch and puppies to vet for check up. The vet will ensure that the bitch
hasn't retained any puppies or placentas and
that the puppies are in good health. You especially want to check for cleft
palates as these puppies probably won't survive
and should be euthanized now.
Preparing Your Whelping Kit
Car
Have your car ready in case you have to make
a quick trip to the vet's office. Ideally, you'll have someone to drive
while you sit with the bitch. Take some towels with you because it
is very common for the bitch to start delivering with the motion of the
car. You should protect your car's carpeting or upholstery with a sheet
or blanket that can be washed.
Make sure the car is gassed up and ready to
go. If you need to make the trip, you don't want to have to delay for things
like that.
Whelping Box
A box with sides large enough for the bitch
to stretch out comfortably. She and the pups will live in the box for the
first few weeks. The whelping box should have guard rails (also called
pig rails) extending from the sides to protect the puppies from their mother
rolling over on them.
Newspapers
Keep a good supply of newspapers on hand to
line the whelping box during the actual whelping. As the papers become
messy, you can just put a new layer down and clean the whole thing up when
the whelping is over.
Trash Can
Keep a trash can on hand for use during the
whelping and while the pups are growing up. Trust me -- puppies are messy!
Incubator Box
You'll need a smaller box on hand to put the
puppies in when Mom is delivering another puppy. You don't want the pups
to get cold so line it with a towel and keep it near a heat source or put
a heating pad under the towel.
Sharp Safety Scissors
For cutting the umbilical cord.
Quick Stop Powder
To stop bleeding, if there is any, after cutting
umbilical cord.
Betadine
For cleaning umbilical cord end after cut.
Hemostat forceps
For clamping off the umbilical cord prior
to cutting it. You can use two and tear the cord as an alternative to cutting
it.
This helps inhibit bleeding.
Dental Floss
For tying off the umbilical cord after cutting
it.
Surgical Gloves
Use if you have to help deliver the puppies.
Digital Thermometer
For checking the bitch's temperature in the
day's before her due date.
Bulb Syringe
For helping clear out puppies who are born
with problems.
Flashlight
Puppies always seem to come in the middle
of the night and if you need to let your bitch go outside, you'll need
to keep a close eye on her. A good strong flashlight will make that easier.
Leash and flat buckle collar
Same reason as above. If you take her out
on a leash, she's less likely to disappear into a dark corner and leave
a puppy there without your knowledge.
Clock
For timing the whelping and the time between
puppies.
Notebook
For recording details. The puppy sheets mentioned
in the record keeping sheet will work as well.
Rickrack Ribbon
For identifying puppies. Tie a loose bit around
each pups neck when you check them out and weigh them after birth.
Food Scale
For weighing the puppies at birth and daily
thereafter.
Heating Lamp
A 100 watt bulb installed with a dimmer switch
in one corner of the box will allow puppies to move toward the heat if
they are too cool. The dimmer switch will allow you to control the heat.
Fan
If the weather is very hot, you should keep
a fan on hand. This is more for the mother than the pups. Don't set the
fan up to blow directly on the pups but rather to move the air across
the top of the whelping box.
Whelping Box Pads or Blankets
While the pups are still in the whelping box,
you'll need to keep a blanket or pad in their box. This pad will need to
be changed twice a day or more, depending on how well the dam cleans up
after the pups. A piece of fleece with a towel sewn to the back the same
size as the whelping box makes a great pad. They can be washed and bleached
to keep them clean. Having four on hand will keep you from having to do
endless laundry. Don't put these pads in the whelping box until the whelping
is over.
Whelping the Litter
Well, it's show time! Your bitch is ready and, hopefully, so are you! Here are some supplies you'll want to keep on hand:
On day 58 after the first breeding, you'll want to start taking your bitch's temperature three times a day. A bitch's temperature will drop from around 101.4 to 99 degrees Fahrenheit or below a few hours before she is ready to whelp. A fluctuation in temperature is very normal, what you are looking for is a dramatic drop to below 99F. The temperature drop is the best indicator of imminent whelping. Other signs of imminent whelping are restlessness, discomfort, licking and looking at vulva. The bitch may refuse food prior to whelping a swell. She will probably pant heavily.
These are all signs that whelping is imminent. Call your veterinarian and let them know that the whelping is beginning so that they will be ready to answer any questions or give advice if you have any problems. The bitch will start pushing and straining at some point and may start digging at the bedding. She'll pant heavily between contractions. The contractions should be visible in the muscles along her back. You'll see them start at the top of her body and move down.
If labor continues an hour or so without producing a puppy, let the bitch go outside and walk around. This can help the labor progress. Also, the urge to push can feel, to the bitch, as if she has to defecate. A well trained bitch will not want to break housetraining and will fight the urge to push, delaying labor. If the bitch is willing to go outdoors, keep a close eye on her. A maiden bitch, in particular, may not know what to do with a new puppy and may abandon it.
If labor continues for more than three hours without producing a puppy, call your vet! You will probably need to take the bitch into the vet.
Assuming labor continues normally, the contractions will come faster
and the bitch will start pushing seriously. The water sac will appear,
probably break, and then the puppy will be delivered shortly. The placenta
may or may not be ready to be delivered at this point. You can gently pull
on the cord to see if it will come but you should never pull on the puppy
to check.
You may pull the cord off the puppy and risk an umbilical hernia.
The bitch may want to eat the placentas. Opinions vary about whether or not this is a good idea. Some people think it's good nutrition for the bitch when she's exerting great effort. Others feel that the bitch will get diarrhea from eating them. Some breeders compromise by letting the bitch eat one and then keeping them away from her. Whatever you do, you want to make sure that you have a placenta for each puppy born. If the bitch should retain a placenta, she is at risk of having a serious uterine infection.
If you want to do this, you'll need to clear the water sac away from the puppy's nose and mouth first. Hold the puppy upside down to help drain fluid and mucus from its nose and throat. Rub the puppy very vigorously -- even roughly -- with a dry, clean towel until the puppy squeaks. This rubbi ng will both clean the puppy and stimulate it to start breathing.
Many people allow the bitch to clean the puppy and chew off the umbilical cord. Others worry that the bitch may chew the cord off too close to the puppy resulting in an umbilical hernia and choose to deal with this themselves just to be safe. If you choose to do the task yourself, you'll want to cut the cord about 1" away from the body and tie it with plain dental floss. Dip the tip and the floss in Betadine solution (or another disinfectant such as iodine). It will dry up and drop off in a day or so.
Once the pup is breathing and clean, whether you did it or the dam did it, you'll want to check the puppy out carefully, weigh and measure the pup, check for abnormalities such as cleft palate, and identify the puppy in some way. Rickrack ribbon works very well. Measure and cut a piece large enough to tie loosely around the puppy's neck. This is only necessary if you're puppies are very similar. Other ways to mark the puppies include clipping bits of fur on different parts of their bodies or marking them with nail polish.
If the bitch is having a break between puppies, you should let the puppy nurse. The colostrom (first milk) that the puppies get is extremely important. It carries immunities that protect the puppies from infection. The puppy's nursing will also stimulate the bitch's contractions allowing her labor to progress. Take a chance to rest and relax while you can. Don't worry, however, if you can't get the puppies on the dam right away. They can go several hours without getting milk with no problem. Once labor starts up again, move the puppies into to the incubator box for safety while the dam is distracted.
Very often their will be a longish break between puppies about half way through. You can take the bitch outside, although she may not want to leave the puppies (you should encourage her!). Again, you'll want to keep a close eye on her to make sure she doesn't deliver a puppy out there and not know what to do with it.
The puppies can come as quickly as 15 minutes apart or as long as an hour apart. If the bitch goes more than an hour and you are think there are more puppies, call your vet! There may be a puppy stuck and you'll want to ensure that you get it out as soon as possible.
When your bitch is finished whelping, you'll notice her calm down. Her breathing will slow and the contractions will stop. You should take the bitch and her puppies to the vet within the next four or five hours if at all possible. Don't go more than 24 hours without having them checked out. If the bitch has a retained puppy or placenta, she is risking serious infection. If any of the puppies have cleft palates or other deformities, you need to know as soon as possible. Such puppies are usually humanely euthanized by your vet as they are generally not likely to live.
There are a variety of problems you may run into. Again, keep your vet and/or emergency vet's phone number handy in case you run into a situation you aren't prepared for. If you have any question about what is happening or what you should do next, don't hesitate to call the vet. You really are dealing with life or death situations and it's much better to be safe than sorry.
Some breeders suggest keeping some drugs on hand to help the bitch should she have trouble delivering. You can discuss this with your vet but I don't recommend this practice. This drug is very strong and can cause serious complications if the problem is a large puppy blocking the birth canal. A better option is to keep in contact with your vet and take your bitch in if necessary.
There are some alternative medications that many breeders are using
and recommending now that have similar results without the risk of injury.
For a bitch whose labor is slowing down, there is a homeopathic treatment
called Caulaphyllum (SP????).
This should be administered when the bitch is in a non-productive labor.
Do not use it unless the bitch is clearly in labor. For puppies-in-distress,
you can try a product called Bach's Rescue Remedy. It is a good gentle
"kick start" for pups in trouble.
You would just put a couple of drops on the puppies tongue. The nice
thing about these remedies is that they can't be overused. They are extremely
gentle. Detractors from homeopathic or alternative measures will tell you
that these treatments won't do anything, good or bad. (For more information
on this topic, see t he Resource section below. There are a couple of books
on Natural Health.)
The first problem you might see is a bitch that starts labor but doesn't proceed to delivering. First you should try walking her around outside to see if that helps her relax enough to start pushing. If that doesn't work in about 15 minutes, you can try a technique called "feathering." Put on surgical gloves and apply a small amount of lubricant such as KY Jelly. Gently, gently, gently insert one finger into the bitch's vulva and gently tickle -- or feather -- her along the top of her vagina. This can help stimulate stronger contractions. If this doesn't produce a quick result or the bitch is getting tired at all, call your vet. You will probably be making a trip in to get some expert care.
The vet will probably x-ray your bitch to determine how many puppies
are waiting to be born and whether or not you are dealing with a malpresentation
(puppy trying to go out the wrong way). If all looks well, the vet will
probably give your bitch injections of calcium and/or pitutary oxitocin.
These injections often stimulate strong contractions and get the labor
moving along. If they don't work, or if you are dealing with an overly
large puppy or a malpresentation, the vet will probably recommend a cesarian
section. C-sections should not be taken lightly but they are often unavoidable.
They are very expensive and put the life of the mother and puppies at great
risk. You should decide at this time whether or not you want the vet to
spay your bitch during the C-section. Sometimes, there won't be any choice.
If the uterus is badly damaged or infected, they will have to spay your
bitch at this time. Once you reach the point of a c-section, many of the
decisions will be taken out of your
hands.
Discussing this possibility with your vet ahead of time is a good idea
so you can find out what procedures they use and how amenable they are
to your helping to revive the puppies as they are delivered. Many vets
will not allow you into their examination area, however, some are grateful
for the additional hands in reviving puppies. One of the biggest problems
with a C-section is the anesthesia given the the bitch. Because the puppies
are still attached to her system, they will, inevitably, be anesthetized
as well. It is really important that your vet take this into consideration
when anesthetizing the bitch. Many vets will mask her down and this is
the recommended procedure. This means that the vet administers isoflourene
gas to start her off, rather than administering a drug like Valium-Ketamine
(SP?) to put her to sleep before starting the gas. If your bitch is high-strung
and/or aggressive, the vet will probably insist on doing the Valium-Ketamine
option, but if your bitch is placid and
biddable, you should ask that they mask her down. The gas is much easier
on the puppies sytems and they will be much easier to revive. The recovery
of your bitch will be difficult after a c-section. It is major abdominal
surgery and puts a huge strain on her system. However, if all goes well,
she should still be able to care for and nurse her litter. Your vet will
give you detailed instructions for her care. They will often prescribe
antibiotics to help her avoid infection. You should be careful administering
any antibiotics as they will generally cause both the dam and the pups
to have diarrhea.
A case when you won't have time to get to the vet is when you can't get a puppy breathing. Every puppy should be rubbed vigorously until they squeak and start moving around. Some of them are born with a squeak and don't need any additional help but more often than we'd like, puppies need extra help. If the vigorous rubbing doesn't work, you'll want to act quickly. The fastest way to get fluid out of the puppy's throat and nose is to hold the puppy firmly and raise it above your head and swing it quickly down between your legs. The centrifugal force can clear the nose and throat. If this doesn't work, you can try using a bulb syringe to aspirate any possible fluid. While you are working on the pup, keep rubbing it vigorously and make sure it stays warm. Hopefully you'll be rewarded with that gasp of life and a healthy puppy.
At some point, however, you may have to give up on a puppy. This is an extremely difficult decision but if you've worked on the puppy for 15 minutes without response, you are unlikely to revive the puppy. Consult with your veterinarian about what to do with the dead puppy. Sadly, this isn't an uncommon event in a whelping.
Again, there is no shame in calling your vet for help. If you are unsure what to do or are presented with a situation you or your bitch don't understand. Get professional help!
Once the whelping is over, you'll be ready to let the new family settle down and get some well-deserved rest. And you'll need that rest yourself. Make sure the bitch has relieved herself and gotten some fluids. Give her a sponge bath so she is clean and fresh. Feeding her chicken broth with rice is a good first meal after whelping as it will be gentle on her stomach but give her plenty of fluid and nutrition.
A first-time mother may have some serious doubts about these puppies,
particularly if the delivery was painful for her. This is another time
where obedience training comes in handy. It is extremely important that
you get the puppies nursing both for their sake and hers. Put the bitch
on a down-stay, get in the whelping box with her to reassure her, and put
the puppies on her. If she growls or complains, just keep her head away
from the puppies. She's going to be tired and won't fight you too much
-- besides, she's used to obeying your commands, right? The obvious benefit
here is that the pups will get that necessary colostrum which will provide
them with their mother's immunities. The added benefit, however, is that
the nursing triggers the release of hormones into her bloodstream. These
hormones help promote the bitch's mothering instincts. The more the puppies
nurse, the more loving the mother will feel towards them. It's true
of humans as well. Hopefully, the bitch will settle down and feel content
as the puppies nurse. You should still supervise her with the puppies until
you are sure she has fully accepted them and her new role.
Raising Puppies Timeline
Week One (Days 1-7)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES
90% of time
spent sleeping
10% eating
Susceptible
to heat/cold
Instinctive
reflexes: crawl, seek warmth, nurse
They can right
themselves if placed upside down
Needs stimulation
for urination/defecation
Rapid development
of central nervous system
Need constant
care from bitch
Rectal temperatures
94-97°
Pups may lose
10% of weight after birth, but should start gaining again
Weight should
double by end of week
CARE OF THE PUPPIES
Chart weight
daily (2 x daily first 2 days)
Examine puppies
daily
Trim nails weekly
Keep whelping
box around 85° (this means if it's hotter than that out, put a fan
in the room or turn on the air
conditioning,
if it's colder than that get a heat lamp to put above the whelping box)
When you handle
the puppies, it's a good idea use a towel when you hold them. The puppies
urinate upon
stimulation
and will inevitably find your attention stimulating!
If your breed
requires tail, ear, or dew claw docking, schedule this with your vet.
CARE OF THE BITCH
Keep dam on
fluids for first 24 hours (i.e.. chicken broth, etc.)
Feed three full
meals a day after that
Supplement with
250 mg Vitamin C twice daily
If puppies are
fussy, supplement bitch with Vitamin B complex
Check mammary
glands twice daily (looking for signs of mastitis -- swelling, hardness,
pus, etc.)
Keep an eye
on vaginal discharge (looking for signs of infection)
Make sure bitch
eats, drinks, and relieves herself
TO DO LIST
Keep detailed
records on puppies' weight and behavior
Keep charting
bitch's temperature
Call puppy buyers
with results of whelping
Week Two (Days 8-14)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES
Eyes should
open around days 8-10
Ears should
open around days 13-17
Temperatures
should be around 97-99°
CARE OF THE PUPPIES
Keep whelping
box around 80°
Begin holding
puppies in different ways (applying light stress)
Trim nails weekly
CARE OF THE BITCH
Bitch should
get three times her normal amount of food
TO DO LIST
Continue as
above
Week Three (Days 15-21)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES
Teeth begin
to erupt
Puppies stand
up and start walking
Begin to lap
liquids
Defecate/urinate
without stimulation
Start becoming
aware of environment
Start playing
with littermates
Develop sense
of smell
Puppies will
start to discriminate as to where to relieve themselves
CARE OF THE PUPPIES
Start adding
stimuli (toys) to puppies' life
Start giving
specific stresses when handling (i.e.. pinch an ear or toe gently)
Start giving
pups milk replacer to lap for one meal a day -- after two days, add some
very mushy food
Weigh puppies
every 2 days
Give puppies
a dirty shirt of yours to play with
Start weekly
grooming sessions (brush, trim nails, look at teeth, etc.)
CARE OF THE BITCH
Continue as
above
TO DO LIST
Purchase milk
replacer to feed puppies
Week Four (Days 22-28)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES
Begin to eat
food
Begin to bark,
wag tails, bite, paw, bare teeth, growl and chase
Use legs well
Tire easily
Depth perception
starts
CARE OF THE PUPPIES
Keep mom with
them a lot! Things can get overwhelming at this age and Mom will add stability
for them
Each pup needs
individual attention
Offer food that
is the consistency of cooked oatmeal
CARE OF THE BITCH
Continue as
above
TO DO LIST
Start limiting
bitch's access to pups before offering them food
Week Five (Days 29-35)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES
Group activities
and sexual play will begin
Dominance order
starts
Rapid growth/development
CARE OF THE PUPPIES
Reduce fluids
in puppies' food
Make sure other
people start coming to see pups
Begin weaning
Play radio at
normal volume near pups for 5 minutes at a time
CARE OF THE BITCH
Start reducing
amount of food to discourage milk development
Keep a careful
eye on mammary glands
TO DO LIST
Discuss vaccination
schedule with veterinarian
Week Six (Days 26-42)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES
Growth and development
continue
CARE OF THE PUPPIES
Offer soft,
damp food
Chart weekly
weight
Individual attention
crucial -- give each puppy time with you away from litter
CARE OF THE BITCH
To prepare bitch
for weaning: Day 1 -- no food
Day 2 -- 1/4
normal maintenance meal
Day 3 -- 1/2
normal maintenance meal
Day 4 -- 3/4
normal maintenance meal
Day 5 -- full
amount of normal maintenance meal
Keep bitch on
puppy food for several weeks to help her recover from the strain of breeding,
whelping, and raising
puppies
Keep careful
eye on mammary glands
TO DO LIST
Continue as
above
Week Seven (Days 43-49)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES
Total hearing/visual
capacity
Will investigate
anything
Can't respond
yet to name
CARE OF THE PUPPIES
Pups should
be weaned and on regular puppy food
Pups can go
to new homes
CARE OF THE BITCH
Keep careful
eye on mammary glands until milk is completely dried up
TO DO LIST
Week Eight (Days 50-56)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES
First fear period
Starts learning
name
CARE OF THE PUPPIES
Don't ship puppies
Can start training
puppies in small steps
CARE OF THE BITCH
Continue as
above
TO DO LIST
Continue as
above
Week Nine (Days 57-63)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES
Develops strong
dominant and subordinate behavior among littermates
Begins to learn
right behavior
Motor skills
improve
Short attention
span
Starts focusing
attention on owner rather than other puppies
Separate littermates
Start house
training
CARE OF THE PUPPIES
Continue lots
of individual attention
Week Ten (Days 64-70)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES
Safe to ship
puppies by air
Finding And Dealing With Puppy Buyers
Finding good homes for your puppies should be one of your highest priorities. This is not an easy task but it is a very rewarding one. Matching the right dog with the right family is a great feeling! Responsible breeders try to have a list of interested buyers before they do the breeding -- or at least before they whelp the litter. As stated before, there is a serious pet overpopulation problem in this country and no litter should be bred without a purpose. That purpose should include providing wanted puppies to good homes.
The most effective way to find homes is by connecting into the network of breeders in your area. This is best done by finding a breed or kennel club in your area, joining, becoming active, and taking advantage of their resources. Many clubs publish litter listings in their newsletters and then club members refer callers to those litters. This is another way that your active participation in showing, training, and working your dog makes you a better breeder. By building a network of resources doing these activities, you open yourself up to puppy referrals.
Advertising can be useful but should be done with care. Many breeders advertise upcoming litters in breed publications. Newspaper ads should be considered a last resort as you should have homes lined up before the puppies are born.
When word gets out that you are doing a breeding, you'll probably start getting phone calls from potential buyers. You should carefully screen these buyers over the telephone and ideally in person before putting them on your puppy list. The type of information you should be trying to get from the buyers should focus on their potential as dog owners. Try to evaluate their intentions and their understanding of what is involved in raising, training, and caring a dog. You should try to evaluate their home in terms of things like whether or not they have a fenced yard, if they will be able to provide the type of exercise appropriate to the dog. If your breed has special grooming considerations, you should make sure that they understand these as well.
Part of your job as a breeder is acting as a counselor of sorts to your puppy buyers. In addition to the above information, you'll want to make sure they understand all the health concerns for your breed. If they don't ask the right questions, you should be prepared to fill them in on the information while explaining everything you have done to avoid these problems.
Most breeders provide a puppy packet with their puppies. These packets include the bill of sale, any health guarantees (as discussed below), details on what the dog should be fed, details on what shots and worming the dog has been given, etc. Puppy packets can also include descriptions of the breed, pedigrees, photos and health clearances on the parents, information on training, and other items of interest.
A breeder should be willing to make a lifelong commitment to the puppies they produce. They should be willing to answer questions or concerns at any time in the dog's life. Many breeders make a further commitment to take back a dog at any time in the future should the owner's be unable to keep the dog. People's lives can change with little or no notice and dog's sometimes suffer. Rather than seeing one of their puppies end up in the pound, breeders often put a "right of first refusal" into their contracts.
The AKC has recently started offering limited registrations. This is
a great option for breeders who want to ensure that the puppies they produce
don't get used in the future to add to the pet overpopulation problem.
Limited registrations mean that the dogs so registered can't be shown nor
can their offspring be registered with the AKC. The breeder can change
the registration in the future should the owners decide they want to show
or breed it. The breeder is the only one who can make that change. If you
go with this option, you'll want to explain this carefully to the pet buyers
so that they don't misunderstand or have a problem with it when they come
to collect their puppy.
Health Guarantees
Every dog breed has health problems associated with it. Responsible breeders do everything in their power to avoid these problems in their litters. More and more breeders are finding some way to stand behind their breeding program by providing guarantees or warrantees on their puppies. The details will change depending on the breed and the types of problems seen in the particular breed. What you offer as a guarantee is up to you. Many people offer money or a replacement puppy upon proof of the particular problem.
An example is with hip dysplasia: many breeds have a problem with dysplasia
and it is extremely common to evaluate the parents' hips. However, even
with these x-rays and evaluations, there is no way to ensure that the puppies
won't be affected. If the puppies end up having problems, some breeders
will refund the purchase price with the intention of easing the veterinary
bills for the owners. Other breeders will offer a replacement puppy to
the owners for sometime in the future. Some breeders insist that the affected
puppies are returned. Some breeders will insist that the affected puppy
be spayed or neutered before honoring their guarantees. Whatever you do,
you need to be very clear with your buyers about your policies to avoid
problems in the future.
Financial Considerations
Many people go into breeding thinking that it's a great way to make
some easy money. Nothing could be further from the truth.
Done correctly, breeding is rarely a money-making venture. If there
are any problems at all, breeding generally becomes a financial disaster.
So, you have to be prepared for possible expenses that may or may not occur.
Keeping a credit card cleared off in case it's needed can be a good way
to handle this type of problem.
Most breeders get a deposit of some sort from potential buyers at some point during the process. Some breeders require a deposit before putting buyers on their list. Some don't accept deposits until the puppies are born and they are sure they have a puppy for the buyer. Whatever you decide to do, please be sure to carefully explain under what circumstances you will or won't return the deposit so as to avoid unpleasantness in the future.
Whatever your deposit arrangements, you should require payment-in-full
before turning your puppies over to the new owners.
The price of the puppies depends on your breed and the market in your
area. Ask around among other breeders, consider your expenses, and set
a fair price for your puppies.
If you have a large litter with no problems, you can expect to pay your
expenses and, perhaps, make a little extra money. If you have any problems
at all, including a small litter, you will probably loose money on breeding
a litter. Done correctly, breeding puppies is no way to make your fortune.
Author
Liza Lee Miller, lizalee@stanford.edu
Originally written: April 1996
Copyright 1996 by Liza Lee Miller. All rights reserved. You may download
and print a copy of this file for your personal use.
Further distribution must be with the explicit permission of the author.
Before breeding a bitch, please consult a veterinarian. The information
contained in this FAQ should in no way be construed as a substitute for
veterinary care and advice. Further, you should make an effort to find
a veterinarian who is familiar with canine whelping issues. Because so
many people are being responsible and spaying their bitches, fewer veterinarians
are comfortable with whelping puppies. Surprisingly, emergency clinic veterinarians
are more likely to be familiar with whelping issues. This is no doubt because
of the well-known maxim that, given a preference, dogs will whelp at 2
am when the regular vet clinics are closed. Again, please consult a veterinarian
before doing any breedings. As with people, pre-natal care is important
in bitches.
Resources
All of the above information is very general, please be aware that certain breeds have very specific needs and/or problems during breeding, whelping, and puppy rearing. Please contact your breeder or veterinarian or refer to a good book on your breed for more information on how to deal with these specific issues.
Books
Canine Reproduction, Phyllis A Holst, MS, DVM, Alpine Publications, 1985.
Dog Breeding for Professionals, Dr. Herbert Richards, TFH Publications, Inc., 1978.
Dog Owner's Home Veterinary Handbook, second edition, Delbert G Carlson,
DVM and James M Giffin, MD, Howell
Book House, 1992.
The Joy of Breeding Your Own Show Dog, Ann Serrane, Howell Book House, 1980.
Dr. Pitcairn's Complete Guide to Natural Health for Dogs and Cats, Richard
H Pitcairn, DVM and Susan Hubble
Pitcairn, Rodale Press, 1995.
Articles
AKC Gazette, August 1995.
Breeding, Whelping, and Rearing Puppies FAQ
Liza Lee Miller, lizalee@stanford.edu